Pembrokeshire Coast Path

The trail runs 186 miles (299 km) between Amroth in the south and St Dogmaels in the north. Most walkers take 12 to 15 days, covering roughly 15 miles a day on the classic schedule. No single day is mountainous, but the path constantly climbs in and out of steep coastal valleys, so the total ascent reaches about 35,000 ft (11,000 m). That is why it is often described as the equivalent of climbing Everest, and why walking the whole route is a genuine physical challenge even though individual sections feel gentle. Because the difficulty is really about that repeated climbing rather than any one summit, it pays to plan the days deliberately: setting the 186 miles out stage by stage on Traileasy shows how a tighter twelve day schedule piles on the ascent against a gentler fifteen, so you can pitch each day at your own legs rather than the guidebook default.

There is no official preferred direction, but most people walk south to north, from Amroth to St Dogmaels, and that is how the main guidebook is written. Starting in the south gives you a gentle introduction around Tenby and Saundersfoot, where cafes, pubs and accommodation are plentiful, and it saves the hardest, most remote stretch (Newport to St Dogmaels) for the end when you are fittest. The trade off is that the prevailing southwesterly wind and the sun tend to be in your face. Walking north to south puts the wind and sun more at your back but front loads the toughest, most exposed day.

Wild camping is not legal in Wales without the landowner's permission, and the National Park is explicit that the private land the path crosses is not open to it. Instead, use the excellent network of official campsites, many of them right on the path, plus B&Bs, guesthouses, hostels and several YHA hostels along the route. Book ahead from April to October, especially in the peak summer months. Villages and towns are frequent in the south and centre for resupply, but note the northern section between Newport and St Dogmaels has no refreshments or services, so carry what you need for that day.

The whole path is reachable by public transport. The West Wales railway serves Tenby, Saundersfoot, Manorbier, Pembroke and Pembroke Dock in the south, with Kilgetty the nearest station to Amroth. The northern end has no local station, so use Fishguard or the bus hub at Cardigan, with the Poppit Rocket bus reaching St Dogmaels and Poppit Sands. A dedicated network of coastal shuttle buses (the Poppit Rocket, Strumble Shuttle, Celtic Coaster, Puffin Shuttle and Coastal Cruiser) links the trailheads and lets you return to your start, mostly running daily from May to September. Check current timetables with Traveline Cymru before you travel, as routes and frequencies change seasonally.

Two tidal crossings near Dale must be timed with the tide. Sandy Haven Pill is reliably passable only about three hours either side of low water, and The Gann a little less, so aim to reach the first crossing around three hours before low tide to clear both, or face detours of several miles. Always check a tide table. Separately, the Castlemartin firing range in the south (which includes the Green Bridge of Wales and St Govan's Chapel) closes the coast path during live military firing, so check the published firing notices and follow the inland range trail when red flags are flying. Keep well back from crumbling cliff edges throughout, and carry water, as refill points along the path are limited.

The path strings together some of Britain's finest coastal scenery. Do not miss St Davids, the smallest city in the country, with its ancient cathedral, and the seabird islands of Skomer and Skokholm, reached by boat from Martin's Haven and famous for puffins and seals. Look out for the Green Bridge of Wales, a spectacular natural limestone arch, the tiny cliff-wedged St Govan's Chapel, and the golden sands of Marloes, Barafundle and Whitesands. Strumble Head in the far north is a fine spot for seals and porpoises, and in autumn you can watch grey seal pups on quiet beaches from the clifftops.